700/750 Maxim-X Menu

1985/86 Yamaha 700/750 Maxim-X
OIL & FILTER CHANGE
All about Maxim-X oil, filters, additives & capacities.
WHY Change The Oil?
Seems like a silly question but it's important where the Maxim-X is concerned. The Maxim-X runs at high RPM, higher than many motorcycles, and usually with a lot of load if you drive like I do. Unlike cars and some motorcycles with separate transmission lubrication, the Maxim-X also has a wet clutch and transmission. Under those circumstances, oil breaks down more quickly and threatens the longevity of the bike. Also, as in all other bikes, extended bike use causes wear particles and carbon to collect in the oil to further reduce oil performance. In addition, after periods of storage, crankcases accumulate small amounts of condensation which again reduces oil performance. The Maxim-X also has a relatively small oil filter which doesn't do quite the job of other larger filters. All of this, together with the fact that motorcycle engines generally do a lot more work than car engines, should make oil performance a constant concern. Oil and filter changes should be regular, if not frequent.

WHEN Should Oil & Filter be changed?
The frequency of oil & filter changes is subjective. Some people will change their Maxim-X oil 2 or 3 times a season while others do it only once a year. Some people replace the oil filter with every oil change while others do it very infrequently. There's really no rule about it but whatever your preference, there are some wise choices and some indicators that shouldn't be overlooked:

As weather changes, oil characteristics change and so do lubricative needs for the Maxim-X. I'm sure every Maxim-X owner has noticed, as I have, that the Maxim-X runs very cold in the Spring, Fall and Winter seasons. The Maxim-X cools so effectively that it becomes difficult to get the engine up to full operating temperature in colder seasons. To coincide with the weather, it seems wise to use a heavier weight oil as temperature climbs and a lighter weight oil as temperature drops. That in itself means you should be doing at least 2 oil changes per year.

After periods of storage, like over the winter months, condensation can collect in the crankcase, harming the oil's lubricative qualities. To avoid damage, it's probably a good idea to change the oil immediately after bringing the bike out of storage.

As the Fall season approaches, I begin to notice that my own Maxim-X has a harder time getting started in part because the engine turns over more slowly. Naturally, that means the oil is a little more viscous than it should be and may not be circulating effectively shortly after starting - another good indicator that an oil change is due.

Like so many others, I'll often forget to do an oil change but the Maxim-X lets me know when it's time. My own Maxim-X begins to rattle and tick a little more than it should when the oil begins to breakdown and is a little too thin to perform well at higher temperatures. When the noise starts, I've learned that an oil change is essential.

One other thought that's always in the back of my mind concerns viscosity breakdown. As I mention in more detail below, apparently regular oils can suffer viscosity breakdown in under 1500km. At that point lubrication starts to become less effective so it almost seems necessary to change the oil every 1500km or so... but that's probably excessive since higher grade oils, especially synthetics, don't breadkdown nearly as soon and none breakdown completely all at once. It's just worth considering that the accumulation of mileage alone has a larger effect than you might think and that most people decide to do an oil change when it's already long overdue. Err on the side of caution - sooner is better than later.

Changing the oil filter is the most subjective of all choices. Short of testing its flow capacity after extended use, I really can't say whether or not the oil filter even needed to be changed whenever I changed it. However, I like to make it a habit to change the oil filter every Spring, after bringing the Maxim-X out of storage. Whether or not it's necessary is uncertain - but it definitely can't hurt. During the riding season I usually don't change my filter again unless I realize that I've been driving "hard" and have needed additional oil changes. If, during an oil change, I happen to notice an excessive amount of metallic filings clinging to the magnetic oil drain plug, that also motivates me to do an unscheduled filter change.

Every rider's circumstance is unique and both climate and usage vary dramatically so each Maxim-X rider will have to decide for themselves whether it's time for an oil & filter change. My choice is a fresh filter in the spring and possibly another one mid-summer, depending on how I've been driving.

WHAT Type of Oil & Filter?
A friend of mine once worked in a capacity where he learned all about oil grades and viscosity breakdown. It's from him that I first learned that regular oil begins to show viscosity breakdown in as little as 1500km, that recycled bulk oil begins to break down much sooner and that fully synthetic oil out performs them all. After some testing of my own, I'm convinced that this is true. But, there's still more to know. Oils can have varying viscosity levels, friction modifiers, detergents and an assortment of additives, each of which are important considerations. So which oil do you choose and why?

Viscosity:
Although the Maxim-X owner's manual shows that you have a choice of only SAE 20W40 type SE or SAE 10W30 type SE depending on weather characteristics, there are more choices than just those. It helps to know a little about oil ratings first.


In each case, the number after the 'W' apparently refers to the oil's maximum viscosity, often referred to as the 'oil weight'. In layman's terms, the number essentially describes a combination of thickness, adhesion & slipperiness - known as viscosity. What's important to know is that viscosity changes as temperature varies and that's why there's another number to consider. The number before the 'W' helps describe to what declining temperature the oil can be used. Although it's not a complete description, the common understanding is that a 5W oil is better for colder temperatures than a 10W, 15W or 20W oil. The actual relationship to an oil's viscosity and it's ability to flow at certain temperatures is not as important as knowing this simplistic relationship: lower number=usable at colder temps). That relationship is described superficially in the chart above.

Additives:
Manufacturers rarely advertise the types of additives that become part of their oil blends but nevertheless, additives are present. There are anti-wear additives, additives to prevent oxidation, detergents to break up carbon deposits, dispersants to prevent sludge buildup and additives to keep oil from foaming, as well as many others. Generally, riders don't have a choice as to the additives in their oil. Manufacturers would have you believe that motor oils specifically labeled as being intended for motorcycles provide some added advantage, like increased anti-foaming agents. That may have been true in the past but these days it doesn't appear to be true any longer. Motor oils today are designed for smaller, high-revving engines and already contain the anti-foaming agents that would be beneficial for motorcycles. If you take the time to visit some of the listed motor oil links, you'll see that oil producers show almost all of their oils as being appropriate for motorcycles, in both low & high end applications. Most quality semi-synthetic or fully-synthetic oils already contain the necessary additives to make them appropriate for use in the Maxim-X.

There is, however, one after-market additive that I personally like to add during the summer months - Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I'm going to stress that this is a personal preference and comes only from my own experimentation. If you've never done so, take the time to visit your local parts store to have a look at their Lucas Oil Stabilizer display. It's usually two sets of 3 gears arranged vertically - one side of the display has the lower gear immersed partly in 100% oil and the other side of the display has the lower gear immersed in the same oil with 20% Lucas Oil Stabilizer added to it. As you turn the gears you can see that the "stabilized" oil clings to the gear surfaces further up the gears. When you touch Lucas Oil Stabilizer yourself, you'll notice that it has the consistency of honey and is very sticky - so sticky that it's difficult to wipe or wash off afterwards. I find that adding 10-20% Lucas Oil Stabilizer to my Maxim-X crankcase quietens my engine somewhat, improves starting significantly and improves bottom end performance just enough to notice. I can't say that the effects are astounding but in my case there was enough of a difference for me to continue adding the stabilizer year after year.

Whether you plan to do the same, or just want to experiment for yourself, there are some cautions to be aware of when using Lucas Oil Stabilizer in your Maxim-X. First, adding too much stabilizer can cause clutch slippage under heavy load. In fact, depending on the condition of your clutch, I'd expect that even lesser amounts of oil stabilizer might do the same. Also, adding too much stabilizer at once to even a warmed up engine can plug the oil filter and overheat the engine soon after you start to drive. The trick is to warm up the engine then add a single ounce of stabilizer, being sure to go for a drive around the block to mix it in thoroughly before adding the next ounce. There have also been discussions of Lucas Oil Stabilizer causing foaming and trapping air when added to synthetic oils, but from my observations, that isn't the case when you don't exceed 20% stabilizer. Although the X has what it takes to whip the oil into a froth, it just doesn't seem to happen. At anytime it's possible to visually check the oil through the crankcase sight glass and I do it often. Despite a crankcase full of fully synthetic oil and 20% Lucas Oil Stabilizer, I've never seen a lightened colour, foam or bubbles of any kind. Based on my own experience, I'd have to say that the foaming stories don't apply to the Maxim-X. Try the stabilizer if you feel the urge to experiment - it won't be a problem.

Because Lucas Oil Stabilizer is so thick and thickens the crankcase oil somewhat as well, I tend to avoid using it in colder months. It's great when the weather is hot but in colder temperatures it seems to restrict oil flow for the first few moments after startup until the engine and oil warms up a little. As a self-imposed rule, I do a final oil change without Lucas Oil Stabilizer after Labour Day and won't add Lucas Oil Stabilizer again until April or May.

API Type:
There's also an API oil classification that should interest Maxim-X owners who are looking for the right oil. The classification appears on all motor oils and looks similar to the various markings below:
You don't really need to be an oil expert to decipher all this. Only the two-letter rating beginning with an 'S' applies for gasoline engines. That rating (ex. SF, SG, SH... SL) identifies what level of performance testing the oil has met. In a nutshell - the higher the rating, the better the lubricative qualities of the oil. Years ago, oil performance was at a level which coincided with ratings such as SF, SG, etc... but today's best performing oils are rated 'SL' and in most cases are fully backwards compatible.

The bottom line is - to get the best possible lubrication for your Maxim-X you'd want an 'SL' rated oil (or better) which is sufficiently viscous at high temperatures but which will still flow adequately at 0°C and below - one that resists viscosity breakdown at high RPMs and high load. In my opinion, the best oil for the job, and the one which I try to use at all times, is a Fully Synthetic 10W40 type SL with JASO MA clutch rating. Not many places sell that grade of oil, but it is available. If you're interested in this level of protection, however, it costs quite a bit more than regular oil. A single litre (or quart) of Fully Synthetic 10W40 type SL clutch rated oil can cost as much as CDN $12 in my neck of the woods and you'll need close to 3 Litres (roughly 3 quarts) for the Maxim-X. With any luck, you'll be able to find the same grade of oil for less wherever you are. Good luck to you.

Concessions:
It's not always easy to find exactly the oil you're looking for and sometimes, even when you do find it, you stare at the price tag for a while before deciding it doesn't fit in your budget. That's when you start making concessions. I've done the same myself but there a certain things I will NEVER do. These are obviously subjective but I'll try to explain my position about each:

NEVER Recycled or Bulk Oil
• Although I'm sure every effort is made to recondition used oil, it's well-known that it's lubricative qualities are short-lived at best. It's simply not as good and not something I want my Maxim-X engine to rely on when I open up the throttle.

NEVER Summer Oil or Stabilizer in Winter
• When it's truly cold out, which it often is up here in the Great White North, a summer oil or oil with stabilizer added doesn't flow very well. Some people continue to use the same 20W50 oil all year round but I don't recommend it. With the thicker stuff in the crankcase, when first cranking the engine there's often unexpected rattling, a slow turnover rate and generally a lot more struggling than my Maxim-X likes. The first time I observed these cold weather conditions was the last time. I'll no longer use stabilizer in the winter and I insist on 10W40 or 5W40 when it's especially cold out.

NEVER 30 Weight Oil
• Although the Maxim-X Owner's Manual allows for the use of 10W30 oil in colder temperatures, it's not something I'm comfortable using. Whether it's cold or hot out, as the engine reaches operating temperature, a 30 weight oil likely doesn't provide the lubrication needed, especially in a 20+ year old Maxim-X. For me it's 40 weight at all times (although I've been known to use 50 weight in the summer as well).

NEVER Without JASO MA Rating
• The first time I experienced clutch slippage under high load (up a steep incline at 8000rpm), I knew it was time to make changes to the oil in my Maxim-X crankcase. After much testing and much research, I concluded that insisting on a JASO MA oil rating was absolutely essential. Ever since I haven't experienced anymore clutch slippage. (Note: JASO MA is not the same stuff as JASO MB)

ALWAYS Synthetic or Synthetic Blend
• By all accounts, synthetic oils appear to out perform regular oils significantly which is why I like to use only fully-synthetic grades in my Maxim-X. However, fully-synthetic oils cost quite a bit more than regular oils so I'll sometimes settle for semi-synthetic just to keep the cost reasonable. Whether you buy semi-synthetic off the shelf or whether you blend your own makes little difference. That's what several oil experts at major oil companies told me directly. As such, when I do make my own blend, I try to use oils from the same manufacturer and with the same viscosity rating and, of course, always with the JASO MA rating. A typical blend for me is half & half of Fully-Synthetic 10W40 API SL / JASO MA and Non-Synthetic 10W40 API SL / JASO MA. That way I end up with the oil weight I expect and the same clutch rating but with a semi-synthetic blend to save a little money over the cost of fully-synthetic.

The Skeptics:
Naturally there are skeptics that believe that this kind of attention to oil characteristics is completely unnecessary. Some bikers are of the opinion that just about any oil will do and they site a lifetime of riding without incident using only basic lubrication as evidence in their favour. Well, I suspect they're the same people we see riding around on rusted out bikes filled with dents and covered in dirt. I prefer to treat my Maxim-X a little better. I like to give my X the best possible advantages to improve the likelihood that I'll still be riding it, in essentially the same condition, decades from now. The fact is that there are engines out there that have failed due to circumstances related to lubrication. Perhaps if those riders had used better lubrication regularly their bikes might not be one foot square right now. I choose to err on the side of caution and care.

MORE About Oil?
If you'd like to read some more in-depth material about oils, oil classifications and oil performance, I found an excellent web site which provides thorough explanations of virtually anything you might want to know in that regard: http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/articles28.htm. The web site was created by a company called AMSOIL which sells oil and oil-related products such as oil filters. [Addendum: An XJ Owner remarked that the AMSOIL SMF105 filter is intended for the Maxim-X as I've shown in the Specifications section. Once I've had a chance to buy and test one myself, I'll be sure to list this filter as a conclusive alternative.]