============================================================ Maxim-X Exhaust System Removal Instructions ============================================================ Notes: ======= - Exhaust system can be removed as a complete unit without any disassembly whatsover - Exhaust system removal is a 1-man job but may require a second hand only to coax the #4 exhaust collar past the right frame rail and coolant pipe. - Exhaust system removal is done with bike on centre stand. - Although engine guards can remain bolted in place for the exhaust system removal, it's best to remove them first - No special tools are required. Here is the list of tools that are required: - bungee cord - power bar (might be necessary for tighter bolts) - ratchet - 6" extension - 3" extension - penetrating oil - 10mm deep 6-point socket - 12mm 6-point socket - 14mm 6-point socket ------------------------------------------------------------ 00) Before you begin, coat all the exhaust collar studs/nuts with penetrating oil days in advance, then gather the required tools & place the bike on the centre stand. 01) Using a ratchet with a 10mm 6-point socket on a 6 inch extension, remove the coil bracket/upper radiator mount bolt. 02) Using a ratchet with a 10mm 6-point socket on a 3 inch extension (6" might cause you to bump into the fender and scratch the paint with your tools), remove the lower two radiator mount bolts. 03) Crank the steering to the right then pull the bottom of the radiator out as far as it will go and tie it off to the forks with a bungee cord. Moving the radiator will provide sufficient room to access the exhaust collar bolts without having to actually remove the radiator. Just don't pull on the radiator shroud or you may break it. 04) Using a ratchet with a 10mm 6-point deep socket on a 6 inch extension, start removing exhaust collar nuts at the #1 downpipe (left). 05) The socket/extension/ratchet will easily clear the bottom of the radiator for all eight exhaust collar nuts and the first six nuts (#1, #2 and #3) can be reached from the left side of the bike. 06) For the #4 exhaust collar nuts you'll be working from the right side of the bike and at this point the deep socket becomes important. For most of the eight exhaust collar nuts a standard depth socket can be used but the #4 inner exhaust nut is obstructed by the coolant pipe and right side frame rail so a deep socket (without the bulge of a standard socket) is necessary. It's at this stage that you'll also need a second person's help. An assistant will be needed to flex the coolant pipe toward the left side of the bike in order to make room to get the socket onto the exhaust collar nut. With any luck the coolant pipe hasn't corroded so much that it breaks under the force because it's very difficult to get the socket onto the nut without gaining that little extra clearance. 07) When you get to the outside nut of the #4 downpipe, it's easy access again. It's easy to get the socket on the exhaust collar nut and the ratchet easily clears the radiator. 08) After the exhaust collar nuts have been removed, the collars themselves may stick in their original positions until coaxed to move. 09) With a little jiggling & coaxing, the collars will slide off of their respective exhaust studs to a free floating position. But the #4 collar will only move about 1cm from the head before it comes in contact with the coolant pipe and goes no farther, but that's OK. Don't worry about freeing the collar until after the rest of the exhaust system is free to move. 10) Using a ratchet with a 14mm 6-point socket on a 3 inch extension, remove the upward-pointing bolt which secures the back centre of the exhaust collector to the bottom of the engine. This bolt may be too tight for a simple ratchet so this is where you might need to use a power bar instead. Just remember that the collector is bolted into aluminum so don't get your rotation directions mixed up or you may strip some threads. 11) Using a ratchet with a 12mm 6-point socket on a 3 inch extension, remove the first exhaust securing bolt by the right rear footpeg. 12) Using a ratchet with a 12mm 6-point socket on a 3 inch extension, loosen but don't remove the second and last exhaust securing bolt by the left rear footpeg. 13) If you don't have an assistant to help keep the exhaust system in place, rest the rear of the left muffler on your knee while you remove the last exhaust securing bolt by the left rear footpeg. Although the exhaust system is not likely to drop on its own, some are freed more easily than others so it's better to control it this way to keep it from falling. 14) It's likely that you will be able to drop the exhaust system in one piece but if you have trouble freeing it because of the interference of the #4 exhaust collar with the coolant pipe and right side frame rail, you may need to unclamp the #4 downpipe from the front of the exhaust collector. If you are able to free the #4 downpipe from the collector clamp, you will be able to twist and turn it out of the head and away from the bike, leaving the exhaust system free to move and drop. However, it SHOULD be possible to drop the assembled exhaust system without having to remove the #4 downpipe. It's been done. 15) With some jostling of the mufflers from behind the bike, work the exhaust system forward to get all four downpipes out of the head. When the downpipes clear the head and the #4 exhaust collar clears the coolant pipe and right side frame rail, the assembled exhaust system will drop. If engine guards are mounted the downpipes may scratch them as they drop on top of them. You'll also have to lift the downpipes off the engine guards and move the exhaust system farther forward before it will freely drop to the floor. Without engine guards, when the downpipes and collars clear, the assembled exhaust system will drop to the floor. To minimize damage to the chrome, it might be prudent to have an assistant help ease the exhaust system to the floor. 16) At this stage, the assembled exhaust system rests on the floor with the collector ahead of the centre stand and the downpipes just behind the front wheel. Therefore, to move the exhaust system clear of the bike, it has to move both forward and to either the left or right side. As you push it forward, swing the downpipes out a bit farther, in this case to the right of the bike, for which it may help to turn the wheel fully to the right as well. 17) When the downpipes are past the front wheel and out to the side of the bike, just take hold of the outer two downpipes to lift and pull the assembled exhaust system fully away from the bike. 18) The end result - the exhaust system stayed in one piece and was successfully removed with the bike on the centre stand and by one person with only minimal help from an assistant. ============================================================