--- MAXIM-X REAR WHEEL REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS --- ============================================================================ The following instructions were compiled with input from several XJ owners to try to achieve a complete set of instructions, tips and cautions. ============================================================================ 01) Secure the centre stand to keep the stand from folding away unexpectedly as you're applying forces to loosen off the wheel. 02) Remove the licence plate - it will be in the way after the wheel drops out of position just before pulling it away from the bike. 03) Remove the cotter pin from the rear wheel axle. Make sure you have a new replacement handy for the reinstallation when you're finished. 04) Remove the axle nut but don't put it too far away because you may need it to help remove the axle. 05) Disconnect & remove the tension bar which prevents the brake shoe plate (aka drum assembly) from rotating when the brakes are applied. 06) Disconnect the brake rod which moves the brake shoes. 07) Loosen the rear wheel axle pinch bolt but don't remove it. 08) Remove the rear wheel axle - this may require some coaxing. Refer to tips [A], [B] and [C] below. 09) Pull the wheel to the right to separate it from the final drive case. You'll need to keep your eye on some specific parts in the process if you want reassembly to go smoothly. Refer to tips [D] and [E] below. 10) After the wheel seperates from the final drive case, the wheel will drop and can be removed toward the rear of the bike. 11) In preparation for reassembly, clean the rust off of the axle with a wire wheel and apply a light coating of anti-sieze compound. If anti- seize compound isn't available, axle grease will do in a pinch (but anti-seize compound is preferable). The coating will keep the axle from seizing again in the future. ============================================================================ ADDITIONAL TIPS ============================================================================ [A] If the axle is stubborn and won't easily move, put the nut back on upside down (ie. with the flat side out and the crown in) and screw it into position so that it is aligned flush with the end of the axle itself. Use a rubber mallet or block of wood against the axle/nut when hammering the axle free. The flush nut will provide a larger impact area and will protect the threads from getting damaged. [B] Before hammering, it will help to spray the exposed surface with some penetrating oil (good stuff, not WD-40). Tap the axle until the nut almost contacts the rear drive housing. Spray the other end and tap it back. Work it back and forth like that, spraying the exposed bit each time. That will work the oil along the axle shaft and it should become easier each time. [C] If possible, have an assistant stick a bar in the hole through the brake side of the axle and apply torque while you tap the drive side. This should help distribute the oil while working the axle back and forth. [D] There is a metal tube "spacer" inside on the opposite side of the brake drum. Make sure you take note of that spacer and put it back in the proper place when you reassemble things. (Refer to #9 on page 6-6 in the X Service Manual) [E] Remember that there should also be a metal washer that's a little smaller than a silver dollar between the drum and frame of the bike where the axle goes through. It is so easy to be looking at the axle when pulling it out on the opposite side that you don't even see it drop to the ground. Then, when you install the axle, it's easily forgotten to put the washer back in. The washer is about 0.3 or 0.4mm thick and has already been observed to be missing from some X's. (Refer to page 6-6 in the X Service Manual between #1-Axle and #2-Rear Brake camshaft Lever.) NOTE: The washer is NOT marked in the manual but it is there. ============================================================================